Personality, dynamism, eclecticism. Strong women crossing the globe with ease and independence. The Marni pre-fall 2015 collection is spontaneous and expressive. It mixes the colorful tactility of Nick Cave’s soundsuits with nods to men’s tailoring and hints of the 70s, pragmatism and embellishment, abstract shapes and military felts. The harmonic juxtaposition of elements is quintessentially Marni.

Precise, softly graphic cuts draw a tall, elongated silhouette. Lean dresses with mismatched knitted vests are worn under neat double-breasted peacoats, while scuba jersey is cut into asymmetric shapes that have the ponderous energy of a Suzan Frecon painting. Envelope belts mark the waist high, further highlighting the slenderness of the figure. The geometry of intarsia vinyl leather skirts is vertical and playful, as are the exaggerated men’s cuffs.

Fur recurs as a texture and a tactile diversion: long vests and collarless coats are made of colorful tufts of alpaca, marmotta inserts and plastic disc embroideries are applied onto strict tops or felt skirts, merging decoration, protection and function.

www.marni.com