Rochas for severe and measured women
A soft rigor for Rochas Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection. Silhouettes, with lightly accentuated shoulders and belted waists, are soft and vertical with slightly flared bottoms. Over coats with a martial feel on crewneck dresses. The bows tighten the necks and the shirts in wool like skirts, the militaristic-inspired shirts are expressed in a feminine and bourgeois key. Bustiers with ruffle tops on dresses with braces: a tribute to a classic Marcel Rochas silhouette for the Maison’s 90th anniversary. From the archive also the swallows in flight motif embroidered on belts, tops, bomber coats, and printed on the severe dresses.
A multi materials collage highlights and contrasts the clarity of lines: cashmere and satin layers on dresses and skirts, different quality of embroideries and jacquard on tops and coats. Impalpable tulle overlaps tweed or matches with cashmere in the sensual bra tops; and fur pockets applied on pouch coats. Materials are substantial but weightless: double cashmere, boiled cashmere, duchesse, jacquard silk. The color palette is mellow and organic, with unexpected breeches: military green, ebony, black and burgundy nuances, with touches of yellow yolk and pale blue.
