Milan’s Mens Fashion 2020:Searching new prototypes
During Milan’s men fashion
shows many brands seem to have wanted the alpha man version to be cancelled. Eliminate stereotypes to free all men from the shame of being a macho at all costs. The result? Quite provocative, in some cases. The true star of Milan’s autumn/winter 26 shows is the down jacket. Only form of outwear capable of attracting and give a message of great innovation. Long, oversize, sometimes in its street version, full of zips and with several prints: floral, geometric or splashed in changeable colors. Many coats have also paraded catwalks designed or in the classic sartorial version or twisted in fabrics or forms.
The most wanted have flashy applications, comfier
Luxurious rough materials, asymmetric edges or again surprise gaps and pockets. Colors remain the only bastion of classicism. Maybe in years they have become more informal and with a comfier fit, but all the same can be considered sartorial. Only a small part of the proposal is influenced form the 90’s grunge style, the biker world and the military imaginary.
Giorgio Armani itself described the collection as “soft tailoring”. A fashion show ruled by enveloping and soft outfits that stimulate the sense of touch. Not to be missed the shawl necked jackets, or again the soft seized coats created in strict Prince of Wales or their more expensive version in cashmere, Astrakhan or sheepskin. Colors remain neutral, as usual, and fabrics get tactile like bouclé wool or a particular wool manufacturing assembled on a special jacquard wicker. The catwalk opens with the snow collection, where mountain outfits are proposed in black or white. Fabrics get more and more technical and details useful and fashionable, like the removable hood. For the evening, everything sparkles discreetly thanks to blue and green velvet.
a lot of fabric research and innovation also for Silvia Venturini Fendi that explores, in her conceptual fashion show, topics like sustainability, sharing and high-quality clothing. Every garment is studied, we could say nearly subdivided. Perfect example are the leather coats and blazer sectioned in two or three parts thanks to zips. The same piece can easily become a jerkin. Double wool hides in pea-coats and overcoats pockets and many other details, demonstrating that functionality can become aesthetics. Something to share with your partner? Bermuda shorts with a panel behind, that can be mistaken as a skirt. Or again leather shoppers and a special edition of the iconic Baguette or Peekaboo bag. Only difference the addition of a case on the bottom. Nuance still remain classic, a part from the persistent presence of yellow, official color of the maison.
the sand on the catwalk is not a scenographic mannerism but the urge to take as back in the 70’s in Ostia, seaside center near Rome. In those years one of our greatest intellectuals, Pier Paolo Pasolini, was about to be killed by a bunch of young troublemakers. Alessandro Michele’s proposal tries to eliminate gender differences by showing us a man that can also be fragile and scared. Youngsters model dress shirts that are too big, or to slim, some even have some missing buttons. Same for jumpers, oversize or so skinny to let the belly uncovered. Trousers and jeans are obviously flair or ripped. Many the references to childhood and its innocent: colored micro can cases, classic baby sandals with the two holes on the front, childish and stylized applications, and mini floral dresses worn under trousers.
same great set up expected from Miuccia Prada that can be described as surreal, just like her collection; Surreal Classic. We can find some punk allusions on her catwalk, but the result is always quite bourgeois and reassuring. Surrealism can be found in the remix of pieces and in the fabric mix and match. Wool waistcoats are paired with blazers that are so oversize to become coats. Shirts without sleeves are combined with the same wool waistcoats, so practically invisible.But the essentials of a perfect bourgeois wardrobe are still there: sartorial cardigans, suits, raincoats and trousers. The surreal effect returns with some of the outfits conceived with stirrup trousers, tall and severe rubbered boots and a classical beige raincoat completely tied up.
Dolce & Gabbana:
the couple of fashion designers takes us back to the origins and bet it all on handmade pieces. The medieval mood of the Italian “antichi Mestieri d’Arte”, associations of artisans or merchants, is displayed in front of us. Fabrics are all manufactured and gives us the impression of an ancestral, nearly primordial man. Voluminous and thick sheepskin are worn upside down and wool is woven handmade in jumpsuits and trousers. Long haired lambswool and sheepskin can be seen worn in soft coats and mantles. All materials invite and stimulate touch.